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Brussels

We walked out of the train station and were thrust into the heart of the multicultural city. Brussels is beautiful, small and fast paced. Our friend nearly got run over in his wheelchair! Purely by chance did Naia say something just in time. So if you are going to Brussels, keep your eye out for drivers who might not be looking for you, whether you are on foot or on bike.

One of the “Wow” moments of all our traveling in Europe was when we saw the Grand Palace and the overall staggering amount of gold in the city of Brussels. Because of thievery, the gold you see in most artwork and architecture is now maintained with gold paint where there used to be gold leaf, like on their government buildings, and if you’re looking for it you’ll see it in other less conspicuous spots as well. Honestly, each time we turned a corner it felt like the architecture was almost morphing into something out of our dreams about what that era must have been like… each building was more amazing than the last building we had just drooled over, and they just kept coming with each new block. Ah, Brussels!

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Stories

Like France and Italy, Brussels’ small streets contain many small, family-owned cafes and restaurants of distinction and impressive quality, offering a cornucopia of delight for every palette. Given the fact that we only had an afternoon in the chocolate and waffle capital of the world, we felt a wave of excitement when we realized we had to begin sampling right away! Plus, we could resist the dalliance of the scent of freshly cooked waffles wafting past our noses no longer and were drawn to a little roadside cafe. We immediately decided on beer and waffles. Ok, truth be known, the boys, Dan and our Dutch friend, Freek, had the alcoholic libations while Naia had a silky-smooth, coat your throat with divinity, perfect drinking temperature hot chocolate, which was one of the things on her list to experience while there. She liked it. She liked it a lot. She had to kick Dan under the table to keep him from drinking all of her cocoa, which meant it had his seal of approval! Naia took a sip of the beer which was a nice light/medium lager but didn’t go too well with the cocoa, however it went well with the waffles, according to Dan and Freek, (pronounced ‘Frake’).

Matter of factly, the waffles were excellent. Our friend started Van’s Waffles and described them perfectly to me one time. “Slightly crispy on the outside and heavenly on the inside.” They felt so light and fluffy it made us wonder if we were in a dream… and then came out the strawberries and cream on the side! Perfection on a plate. A lovely time was had by all. Naia had decided to make a short list of a few things we could try while in Belgium. Some rich, dark chocolate covered almonds would prove to be a more difficult find than the perfect hot cocoa. Apparently dark chocolate powdered nuts are all the rage in Brussels. Naia was looking for smooth, shiny, dark chocolate covered almonds. They are naturally lower in fat, sugar and guilt!

Wondering what to do after our little culinary distraction, while outside the Grand Palace, we spotted the post cards. It was obvious that there is a love of statues here. Surprisingly, you can tell a lot about a place from the postcards. Let us just say that Belgians are distinct from their other EU neighbors. They will put up a statue of a little kid taking a leak and like magic, somehow it becomes a national landmark. Go figure. So, given this oddity, we had decided that our grand quest of the day was to find a statue of a peeing boy. Our not so grand, but would still be fun to accomplish, quests were the dark chocolate almonds and to experience some regular Belgian food. The boys also had their quest to be a little groggy from all of the grog by the time we had to get back on the train, which proved later to be a bit of a challenge. Not the drinking part, but the getting on the train part!

After finishing such a not-so-healthy treat, we needed to walk off the evil, but tasty, sugar, fat and calories. We went off on our adventure, the three of us and Asha. Overall, the city center was well planned out and easy to navigate. Thankfully, there were signs directing us to every place we wanted to see and a map was not necessary. Amsterdam could take a lesson from Brussels in making it user friendly to the tourists! It’s very easy to get lost in Amsterdam when you are just visiting. We headed down to the Grand Palace and saw the bar that has 2001 different Belgian beers. The boys thought they should leave it for the next visit or they might have to call a cab! The LIttle Peer, as Naia dubbed him, was next to a shop where we got our chocolate almonds and, had we known this, we would have found The Little Peer a lot sooner. We spent about an hour and a half with Naia going into every chocolate store on the way to the peeing boy but no such luck. It was only after we found him and threw some pennies into the fountain that we scored the chocolate! Good thing we’re not superstitious!

Finally, the third quest was to be fulfilled. Ah… success! Freek, (pronounced ‘Frake’), took us to eat french fries but Belgian style while we were waiting near the train station. We were early. Naia nibbled on one, just to say she had them, while Dan and Freek devoured the dish. All three of us concluded that they were indeed tasty and also completely unhealthy. Perhaps next time we can explore the healthy chefs of the EU instead? Hmmm?

Train Station

Oh and by the way, there is one thing to remember when traveling by train in the EU, or just about anywhere these days for that matter. The station you arrived at when coming to Brussels isn’t necessarily the one you will use to leave Brussels! Hahahah! Yep, we were waiting outside the wrong station! Simply make sure to check the train tickets for which station train departs from so that you don’t miss it. Our train to Paris left from a different station than our arrival. We didn’t realize this and we were waiting for a train that was never going to come since it was at a different station! Many European cities have more then 1 train station, depending on which direction they are traveling. It was a bit of a crazy journey but we made it to the correct station and caught the train just in time. It was the only train we took in our seven weeks in the EU that had wifi access. Aside from getting some emails done, Dan really liked it because he could map out directions to our hotel, which really helped make us feel more at home when we walked out of the Gare Du Nord in Paris. Leave it up to the Belgians to do the finest things in life just a bit finer.

Food & Dining

Small streets lined with restaurants cafes and pubs are like barnacles on the bottom of a boat… literally one on top of another! There is barely enough room to get through and it goes on for many blocks in every direction and it’s delish!

Shopping Arcade

This glass covered shopping arcade is the oldest in Europe. Sint-Hubertus gallery was built in 1846 is just northeast of the Grand Palace. Eight of these galleries were built but only 3 has survived. The lower level has shops and the upper levels have apartments and condos.


 

Central Square

The Central Square is the heart of Brussels. It contains the Grand Palace and often hosts a busy market. It is claimed to be one of the most beautiful town squares in the world. In 1695 the square was bombed to ruins and was rebuilt completely by the commercial guilds.

 

Tartar de Gamba Blanca con Plancton - Chef Angel Leon

Riding The Crest of the Waves with Chef & Author Angel Leon

Riding the crest of the waves with a totally evolutionary vanguard cuisine offering an experience he entitles calm gastronomy is one of a kind Chef Ángel León.

The Sea Against The Current

Chef & Author Ángel León

At his Puerto de Santa Maria restaurant Aponiente, Ángel has conjured up an epicurism with the enchantment of the world under the sea. He has proven himself a master investigator of Plankton, marine lettuces and algaes, which he filters in his own concoctions and gastronomic gadgets. Additionally, he is an expert in fish, shellfish and seafoods and their preparations. Furthermore, he has invented CLARIMAX for clarifying liquid ingredients to create transparent consommés and utilises olive pits in place of carbon for braising, grilling and barbecuing on open flame.

His pure Andalucian hedonism has brought him many awards at Madrid Fusion and on Canal Cocina T.V. His father, a medical doctor and researcher coupled with his medical doctor mother have instilled in him the investigative nature. His ultimate research project at the University of Cádiz derived in the development of the state of the art CLARIMAX, a kitchen machine constructed by JP SELECTA in Barcelona. Whether coaching, cooking or fishing, Ángel is detail oriented and a perfectionist. His inspiration, inventiveness and “the product” culinary philosophy has enabled him to dazzle diners with his dramatically provocative presentations at your table. His extraordinaire vanguard culinary methodology, unique ingredients an enrapturing touches from his home land all provide the most incredible dining experience one can ever have.

This is an adventure in which you shall savour the mysteries of taste, aroma and textures inspired by the evocative food notes in Ángel´s 22 seat unique magical Soho Manhattan style little restaurant. Furthermore, he has catalogued 100.000 marine species and has constituted algaes, marine flora and marine fauna as the most quintessential of his extensive work with phyto-plankton and the ideal means of culinary diathermy for heating.

CHEEK TO CHEEK WITH ÁNGEL

  • Mar: Your culinary philosophy ?
  • Ángel: The product and no chemicals. I specialize in the natural.
  • Mar: Who are your mentors ?
  • Ángel: Chef Joel Robuchon of 3 Michelin star Restaurant L´Atelier where I worked in France for seven years and for three years in Toledo at La Casa de Templo where I was learning about the historic roots of Spanish culture including the Arabic Moorish and the Sefardic.
  • Mar: The sea ?
  • Ángel: I have always had an obsession with the sea and I enjoy fishing with my dad, cleaning, cutting and preparing fish.
  • Mar: What does Plankton taste like ?
  • Ángel: Here is a sample. The palate tours many new territories of taste while submerging your senses in an astonishing awakening. Plankton contains the highest measurement of Omega 3 thus, this is for health. How would you describe the taste of Plankton ?
  • Mar: It tastes sort of like a fusion between creamed spinach with a slightly oily finish similar to extra virgin olive oil or wild salmon – must be the Omega 3 consistency along with tasting notes of fresh marine herbs, algaes and sea salt perfectly merged together. I like it.
  • Mar: Thank-you. Do you fish for Aponiente ?
  • Ángel: Yes I do, however I am also very community minded and I coach crews on ships and small fishing vessels who are working for 15 Euros hourly. I have taken 30 day fishing excursions bringing in 50 tons of fresh fish. I have also wanted to mention, that I have sourced fish in Cádiz for 4 Euros a kilo and in Madrid these species sell for 40 Euros a kilo.
  • Mar: I believe you would do quite well in politics! What exactly are you doing with plankton ?
  • Ángel: Plankton groves. I filter 1 gram in 17.000 litres of water. The Omega 3 content is the most numerous of all edible species and / or plant life. Plankton is the cellular origin of all.
  • Mar: I understand that you have invented some gourmet gadgets and kitchen machinery ?
  • Ángel: Firstly, CLARIMAX which clarifies a large variety of liquids and soups. I have also created a micro algae diathermy which is a robot capable of making liquids transparent in color. Through extensive research and investigation, I have found that olive pits can be used instead of toxic carbon for grilling, barbecuing and braising of fish, vegetables and meats and the olive pits impart their golden nectar on the exteriors of the products one is grilling.
  • Mar: Do you have any research investigation projects scheduled for 2010 ?
  • Ángel: I am in the process of a joint venture, in which we are collaborating on a baby foodline with a Japanese manufacturer.
  • Mar: And your dream trip ?
  • Ángel: To lose myself in the Alaskan Arctic on a boat.
  • Mar: The crisis ?
  • Ángel: Complicated, hard. I have 22 seats and 11 employee team staff members. Crazy !
  • Mar: Science and ideas ?
  • Ángel: My parents are doctors and medical researchers so I have always respected science, the sea and the culinary arts. Day to day, ideas come to me.
  • Mar: Have you thought to author a book ?
  • Ángel: In March 2010, my trilingual book shall be launched in the market in: Madrid Capital, Washington D.C. & Paris, France. The title: MAR CONTRA CORRIENTE which signifies THE SEA AGAINST THE CURRENT. This is not a run of the mill cookbook. This is a book that comes from passion and fully lives up to the challenges of the title.
  • Mar: I look forward to seeing you in Madrid in March and reading your first book. Tell us, what was your first elaborated recipe at home ?
  • Ángel: Well, my 1st recipe prepared at home was a caramel custard dessert. My mother was livid with me for the tremendous mess I made in the kitchen. I was sort of a Dennis the Menace!
  • Mar: Do you cook at home ?
  • Ángel: Never. I enjoy my mortadella hero sandwich and an ice cold coca cola.
  • Mar: Last but not least, music in the kitchen while working ?
  • Ángel: Instrumental jazz & instrumental flamenco can work. I am also a believer that ”in the stillness of silence is the power.”

ONE OF A KIND MARINE ELIXIRS

An array of perfectly pairing wines by the glass to accompany each dish

  • Salmuera Gaditana: a marine based antipasto palete opener
  • Magnificant Marine Plankton foam, fresh clams, mussel s & Moroccan lemon
  • Freshly caught marvelous mackerel sashimi marinated in sea salt
  • Exotic & delicious Marinated gilt bream and wasabi saffron infusion
  • Phenomenal grilled sardines on olive pits with spearmint confit
  • Perfectly prepared Lula Portuguese squid puntilla calamar ravioli filled with squid stew interior

Incredibly white fleshed silky textured whole fish Borriquete or Burro fish and in English: Rubber Lip Grunt fish, served with mint tea consommé. Ángel explained that he was going to filet the fish for Pilar and I at the table because the stomach of this fish is unedible.

The outstanding Dessert Wines:

  • San Domingo Jerez Pale Cream a Chocolate perfume with sour orange concoction
  • Dandelion flower & Granny Apple Burst ! (And it does burst!)

Restauarante Aponiente

Puerto Escondido 6
Calle Ribera de Marisco
El Puerto de Santa Maria, Cádiz 11500

Book : 956. 851. 870

Website : Aponiente Restaurante in Cadiz

Edited By Janet Song