Paris… Falling in Love Again

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Being completely honest, as is required in this job, I must say the last time I was in Paris I didn’t have the best of experiences.  Of course, it could have something to do with the fact that I never ventured out from the airport, but still, the amount of rudeness and underhandedness I experienced in an hour long layover, at Orly, was quite unbelievable.  As a matter of fact, the level of disdain I experienced there put me off for a full ten years from traveling to, or through, this mecca of romance.

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My husband, Dan, even had to coax me into going by mentioning all of the incredible art at the Louvre, the one museum I had really wanted to see in the EU.  I am exuberant to report that after my most recent trip, I happily stand corrected about Paris.  Today’s Paris has done a 180 degree turn on it’s heels.  People everywhere were polite and genuinely friendly.  I hadn’t ever known any other European city to be so open and friendly to tourists.  All of the people in Paris were so friendly it was absolutely shocking, but in a good way.

I think most people have heard that France, Paris in particular, being full of rude, racist and obnoxious people just lurking in the shadows, waiting for their opportunity to spew their venom on you.  Not so today, however, something tells me that was a more probable scenario before the internet took over.  Now because of the social aspect of the web, people have friends all over the world and it’s making a difference, a big difference.

Paris is certainly one of the capital cities of the Modern Age.  So much is going on 24/7, it’s dizzying.  It certainly rivals New York City for it’s pace, friendliness and style.  The only thing we didn’t see were blinking neon signs of those famous NYC “Open All Night” restaurants, but I bet they were there.  What with all the different attractions, incredible restaurants, mix of cultures and such a long history, you might need a year to just start to scratch the surface of all of the wonders that are Paris.

I realized something very important on this leg of our Europe trip.  The difference between my last trip to France and this one is simple.  Today’s French are really beginning to fall in love all over again…  with Paris, their country and the world, and why shouldn’t they?  The grandeur that is Paris can be seen in it’s magnificent palaces, museums, government buildings and the art that seems to be seeping from just about everywhere.  Also, the French are obsessed with lovemaking.  Well, again, they should be.   Didn’t they invent it or something?  After all, how sensual is it to be surrounded by the most famous architecture? How about the “ahh factor” of shopping in some of the most unique of boutiques or drink an award winning wine, neither of which need be the most expensive?   Mind you, if you want to go full tilt then there is a scotch that goes for $1200 USD per shot most recently consumed by our friend, Greg with his uncle in Paris.

Most people who have been to France understand when I say that there is a heaven on Earth and it’s the smell of the freshly baked baguettes, flakey croissants, and other treats on offer at the local patisserie.  It might as well be the equivalent of culinary Chanel wafting through the air first thing in the morning, or whenever you happen to be hungry.  It is downright Pavlovian.  It’s practically foreplay when you eat the oh-so-delicate, but rich, saucy French food, and of course parlez francais all the while, even if you’re messing up the words!  It’s no wonder that Paris is one of the cultural capitals of the world.  France, in general, certainly holds it’s own as one of the most amazing places on the planet.  Having a very good standard of living as well as the best health care system in the world really does make a difference in the way you experience your life.

Stories

We took the first class train from Brussels and arrived into the Gard Du Nord, (North Garage), on a high speed train that had WIFI available. (Dan was elated to have a decent internet connection).  Also, I should note that traveling by train first class is much easier and worth the extra couple hundred dollars you will spend.  We felt comfortable immediately in Paris because we were able to study the map to easily locate our accommodations. It was just a short walk from the station and on a quiet side street. Like something out of a movie, our host actually greeted us by name as we walked through the door.  He was incredibly nice and very helpful. He  made a point to give us plenty of good advice about where to find things like wipees, diapers and where to go to eat. Our room was small, but smartly decorated with the latest interior design textures and colors. Another thing that was nice, it used the limited space well.  All of the necessary amenities were to be found in it’s new bathroom , including a hair dryer, towel drying rack and the latest deco style sink.  The bedroom  had a work area with a desk and a solid internet connection, something you don’t always find when traveling in the EU. The windows looking out over the street really reminded you of the Bohemian Paris we have seen on the big screen.  We relaxed in the room for a couple hours before leaving to find our dining spot.  We both remarked how it was amazing to think that earlier that day we had been in Brussels and took two trains. It was a weird feeling.  Because of the closeness of all of the countries in Europe, we realized we had visited four countries in two days.

Our concierge gave us the name of a restaurant down the street that had tasty traditional food and really good service.  Our magical Parisian adventure began there when we sat next to two sisters and their brother at the communal eating table.  We began sharing stories and practicing our French with them. They spoke a bit of English, which made things fun. It seemed that the more wine the group consumed, the better everyone understood each other.  Certainly this was a tradition that was well proven all throughout Europe for the last several thousand years and probably helped to keep things peaceful most of the time between the different cultures.

After a couple hours of eating and making merry, we told them we were to meet a friend from California at the L’Arc de Triomphe at 11 a.m. the next day.  Emmanuelle, one of the sisters, said she would meet us and take us all on a bit of a tour.  She then divulged how much she loved the city and has written two books, both in French ,for the first time French visitor to Paris.  I know my eyes must have widened.  We were so excited because these were the only two days we had booked in Paris and we were concerned about having enough time to get a good overview of the city.  We were stunned by her generosity and couldn’t hardly wait to see where we would be exploring.

The next morning we wandered down to the metro and jumped a train out to The Arc. Every person we talked to was very friendly in helping us find our way around. An old man was so pleased he helped us find our way to the stairs to go to under the road to the Arc.  He said, in French, that he used to live in Florida for about twenty years and then moved back to Paris.  The L’Arc de Triomphe is quite large and is decorated with statues from many places.  We met Greg and Emmanuelle under it.  Both Dan and I thought that it seemed so surreal to actually be there. It had been a life long dream to visit Paris and it was already surpassing our expectations.

French Deli

French Deli

Our route around the city included a walk down to the Champs Elyees from the Arc and then to the Obelisk. Our new friend, Emmanuelle, took us to a small garden that was her favourite. It was a lovely little garden with plenty of colorful flowers. We also wanted to experience a local lunch meal. So, we went on a bit of an adventure on the Metro, to the little restaurant, across from the oldest home in Paris, which served whatever the chef wanted to cook that day. It was very good and really inexpensive for the quality and amount of food. Our meal included your choice of three entrees, a piece of fantastic chocolate cake and a drink for about 8 euros.   Please take notice that this place was so hidden that we would never be able to find our way back there without Emmanuelle.

We headed back to the Metro and found ourselves at the Lourve.  We walked through the courtyards in awe. The old palace was quite a building. Like most buildings it was between three and five stories high. It was covered in statues and windows. We passed through the few courtyards to get to the riverside. We found that it was just incredible how big this museum is in comparison with any other building around it.

Next it was on to Notre Dame where we explored a bit and took pictures of the statues.  Dan found it quite dark inside.  I stayed outside with our little girl. It was definitely a Paris landmark that needed to be seen. On the river below the church we took a boat ride up to the Effiel Tower and back.  We should have taken the Hop On / Hop Off boat so we could have gotten off there but there weren’t any available.  I would say to call ahead for that activity as they do book up quickly.

Back at Notre Dame we got off the boat and decided it was a good time to to head up to Montmarte and the Sacre Coeur Cathedral. We stopped in Montmarte and our Parisian Guide left us at the bottom of the hill. We promised to keep in touch and thanked her for the wonderful tour of the city.

The view from the cathedral is amazing and you can see a great deal of Paris from up there. The artistry on the roof of the cathedral is beautiful. Back down the hill a little ways there is an artists area where painters and sketchers were doing portraits. It was a bit touristy area but we sat down for a meal anyways. The meal prices were definitely a lot more up here then what we had so far.

As we passed through the tent to our seat I saw the crepes being served. They looked so good that I was thinking about getting one. My wife took the lead and ordered me pasta instead while I was out walking the little girl. This was a bit annoying since we head to Italy the next day for 3 weeks and I wanted to get in as much of the local dishes as possible. I sent the pasta back and got my crepes with the egg on top. It was enjoyed!

Unfortunately, one of my traveling companions left some important items in the restaurant’s seats while I was out walking with the girl. Although this traveling companion does not agree at all. It is still a point of contention. My hat, later to be known as Wilson, was lost in Montemarte for a day. It missed the train to Florence.

We wished our friend from California good night and took the metro back to our hotel. It was a wonderful 2 nights in Paris.

The next morning we caught a taxi early in the morning to Gare du Lyon for our journey into Italy.

Arc de Triomphe

The Arc de Triomphe stands in the center of Place Charles de Gaulle at the western end of the Champs-Elysees. It is an arch that honors those who fought for France during the Napoleonic Wars. It also houses underneath the tomb of the unknown soldier from WWI.

The Arc displays young french nudes against chain mail bearded German warriors. It is the second largest triumphal arch in existence at 162 feet tall and 148 feet wide. It is so large that a plane was able to fly through it and was captured on video. It was commissioned in 1806 after a victory of Napoleon at Austerlitz.

Notre Dame

Notre Dame first stone was begun in 1163 has been updated and modified each century since. The North and South Tower were completed in 1240 & 1250 respectively. The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

This model of Notre Dame is a scaled and is set with every detail as the real one. Reviewing this allows you to see the detail work that you are unable to see from the ground.

Lourve

Classical statues fill this gallery which is one of the few rooms that can be seen without paying an entrance fee to the museum. As heard in the audio this would be a great place to have a scene from a James Bond movie.

The museum is located by the river Seine in Paris and is the world’s most visited museum. It has an exhibition area of over 60,600 sq meters. The building was extended and added onto many times. It started as a fortress in the 12th century which is still visible. The latest addition which is the glass Pyramids give light to the lower reception and ticketing area.

Napoleon’s Obelisk

This obelisk was originally erected in front of the Luxor temple in the 13th Century BC. It was transported in the 19th century to Paris. Although it was attributed to Napoleon it didn’t arrive in Paris until 1836. This is one of the three obelisks that were given to the great western cities of New York, London and Paris.

Sacre-Coeur

The view from Sacre-Coeur Basilica is located at the top of Montmarte which is the highest point in the city. The basilica finished in 1913 has become a focal point for people to relax after a busy day and listen to music on the steps to enjoy that view.

Brussels

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We walked out of the train station and were thrust into the heart of the multicultural city. Brussels is beautiful, small and fast paced. Our friend nearly got run over in his wheelchair! Purely by chance did Naia say something just in time. So if you are going to Brussels, keep your eye out for drivers who might not be looking for you, whether you are on foot or on bike.

One of the “Wow” moments of all our traveling in Europe was when we saw the Grand Palace and the overall staggering amount of gold in the city of Brussels. Because of thievery, the gold you see in most artwork and architecture is now maintained with gold paint where there used to be gold leaf, like on their government buildings, and if you’re looking for it you’ll see it in other less conspicuous spots as well. Honestly, each time we turned a corner it felt like the architecture was almost morphing into something out of our dreams about what that era must have been like… each building was more amazing than the last building we had just drooled over, and they just kept coming with each new block. Ah, Brussels!

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Stories

Like France and Italy, Brussels’ small streets contain many small, family-owned cafes and restaurants of distinction and impressive quality, offering a cornucopia of delight for every palette. Given the fact that we only had an afternoon in the chocolate and waffle capital of the world, we felt a wave of excitement when we realized we had to begin sampling right away! Plus, we could resist the dalliance of the scent of freshly cooked waffles wafting past our noses no longer and were drawn to a little roadside cafe. We immediately decided on beer and waffles. Ok, truth be known, the boys, Dan and our Dutch friend, Freek, had the alcoholic libations while Naia had a silky-smooth, coat your throat with divinity, perfect drinking temperature hot chocolate, which was one of the things on her list to experience while there. She liked it. She liked it a lot. She had to kick Dan under the table to keep him from drinking all of her cocoa, which meant it had his seal of approval! Naia took a sip of the beer which was a nice light/medium lager but didn’t go too well with the cocoa, however it went well with the waffles, according to Dan and Freek, (pronounced ‘Frake’).

Matter of factly, the waffles were excellent. Our friend started Van’s Waffles and described them perfectly to me one time. “Slightly crispy on the outside and heavenly on the inside.” They felt so light and fluffy it made us wonder if we were in a dream… and then came out the strawberries and cream on the side! Perfection on a plate. A lovely time was had by all. Naia had decided to make a short list of a few things we could try while in Belgium. Some rich, dark chocolate covered almonds would prove to be a more difficult find than the perfect hot cocoa. Apparently dark chocolate powdered nuts are all the rage in Brussels. Naia was looking for smooth, shiny, dark chocolate covered almonds. They are naturally lower in fat, sugar and guilt!

Wondering what to do after our little culinary distraction, while outside the Grand Palace, we spotted the post cards. It was obvious that there is a love of statues here. Surprisingly, you can tell a lot about a place from the postcards. Let us just say that Belgians are distinct from their other EU neighbors. They will put up a statue of a little kid taking a leak and like magic, somehow it becomes a national landmark. Go figure. So, given this oddity, we had decided that our grand quest of the day was to find a statue of a peeing boy. Our not so grand, but would still be fun to accomplish, quests were the dark chocolate almonds and to experience some regular Belgian food. The boys also had their quest to be a little groggy from all of the grog by the time we had to get back on the train, which proved later to be a bit of a challenge. Not the drinking part, but the getting on the train part!

After finishing such a not-so-healthy treat, we needed to walk off the evil, but tasty, sugar, fat and calories. We went off on our adventure, the three of us and Asha. Overall, the city center was well planned out and easy to navigate. Thankfully, there were signs directing us to every place we wanted to see and a map was not necessary. Amsterdam could take a lesson from Brussels in making it user friendly to the tourists! It’s very easy to get lost in Amsterdam when you are just visiting. We headed down to the Grand Palace and saw the bar that has 2001 different Belgian beers. The boys thought they should leave it for the next visit or they might have to call a cab! The LIttle Peer, as Naia dubbed him, was next to a shop where we got our chocolate almonds and, had we known this, we would have found The Little Peer a lot sooner. We spent about an hour and a half with Naia going into every chocolate store on the way to the peeing boy but no such luck. It was only after we found him and threw some pennies into the fountain that we scored the chocolate! Good thing we’re not superstitious!

Finally, the third quest was to be fulfilled. Ah… success! Freek, (pronounced ‘Frake’), took us to eat french fries but Belgian style while we were waiting near the train station. We were early. Naia nibbled on one, just to say she had them, while Dan and Freek devoured the dish. All three of us concluded that they were indeed tasty and also completely unhealthy. Perhaps next time we can explore the healthy chefs of the EU instead? Hmmm?

Train Station

Oh and by the way, there is one thing to remember when traveling by train in the EU, or just about anywhere these days for that matter. The station you arrived at when coming to Brussels isn’t necessarily the one you will use to leave Brussels! Hahahah! Yep, we were waiting outside the wrong station! Simply make sure to check the train tickets for which station train departs from so that you don’t miss it. Our train to Paris left from a different station than our arrival. We didn’t realize this and we were waiting for a train that was never going to come since it was at a different station! Many European cities have more then 1 train station, depending on which direction they are traveling. It was a bit of a crazy journey but we made it to the correct station and caught the train just in time. It was the only train we took in our seven weeks in the EU that had wifi access. Aside from getting some emails done, Dan really liked it because he could map out directions to our hotel, which really helped make us feel more at home when we walked out of the Gare Du Nord in Paris. Leave it up to the Belgians to do the finest things in life just a bit finer.

Food & Dining

Small streets lined with restaurants cafes and pubs are like barnacles on the bottom of a boat… literally one on top of another! There is barely enough room to get through and it goes on for many blocks in every direction and it’s delish!

Shopping Arcade

This glass covered shopping arcade is the oldest in Europe. Sint-Hubertus gallery was built in 1846 is just northeast of the Grand Palace. Eight of these galleries were built but only 3 has survived. The lower level has shops and the upper levels have apartments and condos.


 

Central Square

The Central Square is the heart of Brussels. It contains the Grand Palace and often hosts a busy market. It is claimed to be one of the most beautiful town squares in the world. In 1695 the square was bombed to ruins and was rebuilt completely by the commercial guilds.

 

Japanese Garden

St. Louis´ Other Wild Side

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Immersed, I took in the sounds of screeching birds and pushed huge leaves from my path as I made my way to investigate the bursts of color that were still just a blur in the distance. I pressed on. After dodging the occasional puddle, I discovered the tropical pink pineapples, deep violet banana blossoms sprouting from their tree top perches some 25-feet above me and bright white orchids, all sprinkled with water droplets. The air felt even more moist than the flowers looked and I realized it was at least 20 degrees hotter than only just moments ago, yet somehow the sound of rushing streams made it seem less sweltering. As I wiped the sweat from my forehead, I almost forgot this was early March in downtown St. Louis.

Ottoman Garden

Ottoman Garden

I thought to myself that a botanical garden was an entertainment option most people don’t take advantage of in the big city. It was then that I realized that St. Louis was more than an arch, blues and riverboat gambling—it could be a natural oasis too. The Missouri Botanical Garden’s Climatron Conservatory hosts not only these plants but also displays an array of exotic animals, like poison frogs and puffer fish, and is just one of the 31 gardens and conservatories that stretch over some seventy-nine acres.

When back outdoors, I followed a walkway through electric blue magnolias and fountains, going from garden to garden and it even afforded me a pass by the 1850s Victorian estate of Englishman Henry Shaw, who founded the garden in 1859.

The English Woodland Garden certainly made up in aroma what it lacked in color. Among the simple green and brown, with only an occasional burst of yellow daffodils, I felt my eyes almost sting from the strong pine scent. The Boxwood Garden was full of walled hedges arranged in a maze I could have easily gotten lost in had they been taller than my knee. Manicured in the shape of an ancient emblem, this garden seemed to be stolen right out of another time. I stayed longer there than I did at any other garden, taking my time admiring the precision and craftsman ship—and resting.

Japanese Garden

Japanese Garden

After a break, I was eager to see the famous Seiwa-en Japanese landscape garden and it wasn’t long before I started noticing the perfectly rounded bushes and carefully drawn lines in the sand around them, known as Karesansui. Amidst the stone walkways and willows exploding in lavender blossoms was an old bridge where I fed the hungry aquatic animals below. I tossed the food over the side and had to laugh as I watched the ducks in fierce competition for my meager gifts of sustenance with the giant koi fish, who were considerably bigger. The downfall of this visit, aside from sore legs, was that I came too early to see the orchid show, which employees say is a favorite among visitors, who come from all over the world. They´ve met people who come from as far away as South Africa. Not bad for $8 a head, leg workout included free of charge.

The next day I found myself wiping my brow again as I entered the tropical conservatory at the Butterfly House in Faust Park. Approximately 60 species of butterflies from all over the world filled the room. Their sizes varied from as small as my palm to as big as my hand. Amongst the huge tropical plants, flashes of blood red, black, lime green, lemon yellow, purple and light and dark blues appeared and disappeared in the same instant right in front of me making the experience as nerve-racking as it was exhilarating, mostly because of the caution signs warning not to touch the butterflies, as it could injure or kill them. I found myself adopting a walking rhythm of slow, leery starts and panicked, abrupt stops when one would dart out in front of me. I regretted bringing my purse too. After a few accidental swings and close calls, I learned to keep it clutched to my side. Elsewhere in the Butterfly House are some not so desirable creatures like giant cockroaches, rhinoceros beetles and millipedes. The House, started eight years ago by Sohpia M. Sachs, is an educational facility, after all. So, though I groaned through it making faces, I figured it is only fair to display a full range of the Earth’s bugs, beautiful or not and I can put up with anything with a mere $6 admission.

The place that was most expensive and farthest to get to may have been the best of all three. The Meramec Caverns, located in Stanton, Mo., an hour outside the city, opened to the public in 1933. Further exploration revealed 26 miles of underground passages and as I found out, those 26 miles held a past full of rich history, natural phenomena and, surprisingly, pop culture.

It was the first time on this trip I was chilly as my tour group entered the first and largest of the cave’s rooms—the ballroom. It is not a nickname. Socials were held here in the 1930s as much as Boy Scout meetings are today. Complete with a disco ball, it houses up to 3,000 people. As green, blue, yellow and red lights lit the way, we were led through winding walkways with some low ceilings and up 58 slippery steps, which the guide later admitted to me was tourists’ least favorite part. One of our first stops was at Loot Rock, where Jesse James and his crew hid out from police. A million scenarios ran through my mind when the tour guide the pointed out the bear dens no more than ten feet away from it. We were also shown secret places where gun powder was made during the Civil War.

Hollywood has even been attracted to the cave on occasion. We were shown the spots where scenes were shot for Lassie, the famous fight between Tom Sawyer and Injun Joe in the film Tom and Huck and an episode of the show People Are Funny, in which two newlyweds got tricked into staying in one of the caves for a ten-day honeymoon.

It is a magnificent cavern that extends 364 feet below the ground and seven stories above it. The most fascinating parts of the tour for me were the formations, taking on shapes of a wine table, a curtain of stalactites up to 70 feet long and Onyx Mountain. This 33 million year old underground mountain is the 3rd largest in the world. While one side glows in peach, white and pale blue hues, the other side was black and dying from a lack of oxygen. Maybe the most intriguing feature of all was what the locals affectionately call Adam and Eve, a stalactite and stalagmite directly aligned and are the closest in the world to meeting and forming a column. On my way out, I decided that I would pay another $15 and do it all over again if I didn’t have to be back home the next day.

These special places showed me people can escape tourist traps and get to see what else there is to a big city other than concrete and congestion. When I looked past the typical big buildings, crowded bars and constant road rage, I found a whole new wild side to St. Louis.

Up, Up and Away with Quique Dacosta

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Quique Dacosta has been one of the skyrocketing new generation leaders of traditional Spanish vanguard signature cuisine in the past few years and at the age of 37, he has been experimenting and researching for example, the uses of aloe vera plants in their embryonic stage. He didn’t know if aloe vera was even edible at that point during it’s development when he began his trials.  However, he had known of it’s emulsifying properties. He told me, it was simply a process of trial and error until he managed to create the delectably edible. His investigative spirit has earned him global recognition, a host of awards and two well earned Michelin stars.

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He totally understands that Spain’s current status is not due to chance. He is part of the 4th generation of Spanish chefs who embrace and expound gratitude for those who came before them. Being at the very pinnacle of the vanguard epicurean movement, he continues breaking free, without boundaries, and his design aesthetics are all a part of Dacosta’s impeccably flawless creations, including his re-engineering and transformation of the live sensations and aromas of surf and turf, utilizing the most cutting edge, marvelous products on the market to do so.

Face to Face at El Poblet

  • Mar: Firstly, how would you describe your cuisine?
  • Quique: Vanguard Spanish cooking.
  • Mar: The economic crisis and El Poblet?
  • Quique: I believe it is somewhat complicated for my team, my clients and I was born during a recessive economy so I have had to be more prudent. Nevertheless, we shall overcome this.
  • Mar: Define your palate.
  • Quique: I do not have a favourite dish or preferred flavour. I like just about all.
  • Mar: Can you tell us about your star ingredients?
  • Quique: To name a few: marine algaes, sea lettuces, almonds, Valencian oranges, embryonic vegetables, tuna belly, sea urchins, Dénia red prawns and the Diabetic Green Sugar plant.
  • Mar: What motivated your culinary career?
  • Quique: By accident actually. I arrived in Dénia from Jarandilla de La Vera to spend a summer vacation when I was 14. I was terribly bored and didn’t know anybody. I decided to get a part time job at the local pizzeria. This had been my first contact with a restaurant. It was not exactly a culinary position, however, it sparked the flames of culinary interest.
  • Mar: Tell us about your latest bill of fare.
  • Quique: The idea was initially very clear and quintessential. I have reconstructed Montgó Nature Reserve and the shore, that is to transform the live sensations and the aromas utilising marvelous culinary products and state of the art kitchen equipment.

The Latest Taster’s Carte

  • Snack, crackle & crisp toast snacks: Reggiano Parmesano, Black olive, Walnut, Greek Phyllo and Dried Fruits
  • Trufa blanca de Montgó: White truffles filled with parmesano, fresh goat cheese & blended with white truffles and sprinkled with 5 wild mushroom dust
  • La Bruma: Steamed snow peas, baby lima beans, embryonic stage sweet peas, aromatic herbs, pinenuts and sprouts in a garden steamed
  • Moshi: Cockles, langoustines and pansies in broth.
  • Impresionismo La Roca: Fresh oysters and baby squid in gel
  • Expresionismo rojo: Inspired by painter Mark Rotho, red mullet with saffron
  • Dessert 1: Budding cherries with crumbs of pastry
  • Dessert 2: Green melon, cantaloupe, dried fruits and mandarin smear

Additionally, there were 5 white wines that paired perfectly. “Our point of view? It was a magical experience in every aspect.”


CHEF QUIQUE DACOSTA
Restaurant El Poblet

Centre Les Marines
Km 2.5
Dénia, Alicante
Reservations: 96. 557. 4179
Website:Restaurant El Poblet 

Email: Restaurant and Reservations

Tartar de Gamba Blanca con Plancton - Chef Angel Leon

Riding The Crest of the Waves with Chef & Author Angel Leon

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Riding the crest of the waves with a totally evolutionary vanguard cuisine offering an experience he entitles calm gastronomy is one of a kind Chef Ángel León.

The Sea Against The Current

Chef & Author Ángel León

At his Puerto de Santa Maria restaurant Aponiente, Ángel has conjured up an epicurism with the enchantment of the world under the sea. He has proven himself a master investigator of Plankton, marine lettuces and algaes, which he filters in his own concoctions and gastronomic gadgets. Additionally, he is an expert in fish, shellfish and seafoods and their preparations. Furthermore, he has invented CLARIMAX for clarifying liquid ingredients to create transparent consommés and utilises olive pits in place of carbon for braising, grilling and barbecuing on open flame.

His pure Andalucian hedonism has brought him many awards at Madrid Fusion and on Canal Cocina T.V. His father, a medical doctor and researcher coupled with his medical doctor mother have instilled in him the investigative nature. His ultimate research project at the University of Cádiz derived in the development of the state of the art CLARIMAX, a kitchen machine constructed by JP SELECTA in Barcelona. Whether coaching, cooking or fishing, Ángel is detail oriented and a perfectionist. His inspiration, inventiveness and “the product” culinary philosophy has enabled him to dazzle diners with his dramatically provocative presentations at your table. His extraordinaire vanguard culinary methodology, unique ingredients an enrapturing touches from his home land all provide the most incredible dining experience one can ever have.

This is an adventure in which you shall savour the mysteries of taste, aroma and textures inspired by the evocative food notes in Ángel´s 22 seat unique magical Soho Manhattan style little restaurant. Furthermore, he has catalogued 100.000 marine species and has constituted algaes, marine flora and marine fauna as the most quintessential of his extensive work with phyto-plankton and the ideal means of culinary diathermy for heating.

CHEEK TO CHEEK WITH ÁNGEL

  • Mar: Your culinary philosophy ?
  • Ángel: The product and no chemicals. I specialize in the natural.
  • Mar: Who are your mentors ?
  • Ángel: Chef Joel Robuchon of 3 Michelin star Restaurant L´Atelier where I worked in France for seven years and for three years in Toledo at La Casa de Templo where I was learning about the historic roots of Spanish culture including the Arabic Moorish and the Sefardic.
  • Mar: The sea ?
  • Ángel: I have always had an obsession with the sea and I enjoy fishing with my dad, cleaning, cutting and preparing fish.
  • Mar: What does Plankton taste like ?
  • Ángel: Here is a sample. The palate tours many new territories of taste while submerging your senses in an astonishing awakening. Plankton contains the highest measurement of Omega 3 thus, this is for health. How would you describe the taste of Plankton ?
  • Mar: It tastes sort of like a fusion between creamed spinach with a slightly oily finish similar to extra virgin olive oil or wild salmon – must be the Omega 3 consistency along with tasting notes of fresh marine herbs, algaes and sea salt perfectly merged together. I like it.
  • Mar: Thank-you. Do you fish for Aponiente ?
  • Ángel: Yes I do, however I am also very community minded and I coach crews on ships and small fishing vessels who are working for 15 Euros hourly. I have taken 30 day fishing excursions bringing in 50 tons of fresh fish. I have also wanted to mention, that I have sourced fish in Cádiz for 4 Euros a kilo and in Madrid these species sell for 40 Euros a kilo.
  • Mar: I believe you would do quite well in politics! What exactly are you doing with plankton ?
  • Ángel: Plankton groves. I filter 1 gram in 17.000 litres of water. The Omega 3 content is the most numerous of all edible species and / or plant life. Plankton is the cellular origin of all.
  • Mar: I understand that you have invented some gourmet gadgets and kitchen machinery ?
  • Ángel: Firstly, CLARIMAX which clarifies a large variety of liquids and soups. I have also created a micro algae diathermy which is a robot capable of making liquids transparent in color. Through extensive research and investigation, I have found that olive pits can be used instead of toxic carbon for grilling, barbecuing and braising of fish, vegetables and meats and the olive pits impart their golden nectar on the exteriors of the products one is grilling.
  • Mar: Do you have any research investigation projects scheduled for 2010 ?
  • Ángel: I am in the process of a joint venture, in which we are collaborating on a baby foodline with a Japanese manufacturer.
  • Mar: And your dream trip ?
  • Ángel: To lose myself in the Alaskan Arctic on a boat.
  • Mar: The crisis ?
  • Ángel: Complicated, hard. I have 22 seats and 11 employee team staff members. Crazy !
  • Mar: Science and ideas ?
  • Ángel: My parents are doctors and medical researchers so I have always respected science, the sea and the culinary arts. Day to day, ideas come to me.
  • Mar: Have you thought to author a book ?
  • Ángel: In March 2010, my trilingual book shall be launched in the market in: Madrid Capital, Washington D.C. & Paris, France. The title: MAR CONTRA CORRIENTE which signifies THE SEA AGAINST THE CURRENT. This is not a run of the mill cookbook. This is a book that comes from passion and fully lives up to the challenges of the title.
  • Mar: I look forward to seeing you in Madrid in March and reading your first book. Tell us, what was your first elaborated recipe at home ?
  • Ángel: Well, my 1st recipe prepared at home was a caramel custard dessert. My mother was livid with me for the tremendous mess I made in the kitchen. I was sort of a Dennis the Menace!
  • Mar: Do you cook at home ?
  • Ángel: Never. I enjoy my mortadella hero sandwich and an ice cold coca cola.
  • Mar: Last but not least, music in the kitchen while working ?
  • Ángel: Instrumental jazz & instrumental flamenco can work. I am also a believer that ”in the stillness of silence is the power.”

ONE OF A KIND MARINE ELIXIRS

An array of perfectly pairing wines by the glass to accompany each dish

  • Salmuera Gaditana: a marine based antipasto palete opener
  • Magnificant Marine Plankton foam, fresh clams, mussel s & Moroccan lemon
  • Freshly caught marvelous mackerel sashimi marinated in sea salt
  • Exotic & delicious Marinated gilt bream and wasabi saffron infusion
  • Phenomenal grilled sardines on olive pits with spearmint confit
  • Perfectly prepared Lula Portuguese squid puntilla calamar ravioli filled with squid stew interior

Incredibly white fleshed silky textured whole fish Borriquete or Burro fish and in English: Rubber Lip Grunt fish, served with mint tea consommé. Ángel explained that he was going to filet the fish for Pilar and I at the table because the stomach of this fish is unedible.

The outstanding Dessert Wines:

  • San Domingo Jerez Pale Cream a Chocolate perfume with sour orange concoction
  • Dandelion flower & Granny Apple Burst ! (And it does burst!)

Restauarante Aponiente

Puerto Escondido 6
Calle Ribera de Marisco
El Puerto de Santa Maria, Cádiz 11500

Book : 956. 851. 870

Website : Aponiente Restaurante in Cadiz

Edited By Janet Song

Chef Joaquin Invention

Dining Dëco Style with Joaquin Felipe Peira

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Chef Joaquin

Chef Joaquin

Located in the luxurious five star, award winning Derby Hotel Urban, Dëco is overseen by one of the country´s most exceptional Chefs, downtown Madrid native Joaquin Felipe Peira.  Pulsing with all the excitement of a modern-day cosmopolitan Madrid, Restaurante Europa Dëco is one of the most talked about centre city restaurant venues. Joaquin Felipe Peira´s penchant and enormous talent for multicultural, 21st century, urban-global-twist cuisine are obvious in his unforgettable inventions and presentations. And… the culinary stars of his fashion plates are the phenomenal raw market materials he has personally selected.

Joaquin & Margaux – Ear to Ear

  • Mar: What are some of your objectives for 2008?
  • Joaquin: Since we opened on February 5th, 2005, my point of view is, the 1st year is about doing, making & producing, (hacer). The 2nd year is positioning your restaurant or business, (positional). Now we are in our 3rd year, the maintaining, (maintainer).
  • Mar: Do you believe the culinary arts are an innate talent or that Chefs can study and practice?
  • Joaquin: One can study, learn the techniques, prepare formally and practice.
  • Mar: How do you define your cuisine and what is your culinary philosophy?
  • Joaquin: New tendency, urban multicultural, like in most capital cities, New York City, Barcelona, Sydney & Madrid.
  • Mar: What are the star ingredients at the moment?
  • Joaquin: Red tuna, Iberian Ham, Natural Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Corn Bread.
  • Mar: Where are you from and what are the origins of Peira, your maternal surname?
  • Joaquin: I was born in the Centre of Madrid and my mother is from The Pyrenees of Áragon.
  • Mar: What was the first recipe that you elaborated and where?
  • Joaquin: French fried potatoes at home.
  • Mar: From your experience, do you consider that men and women have distinct palate differences when they request their selections at a restaurant?
  • Joaquin: I believe it is individual tastes verses gender.
  • Mar: I have read that when designing your plates, you have been inspired by vanguard architecture?
  • Joaquin: Firstly, it is organization of the ingredients as they all have a function. Pyramids, squares, cubes, straight lines, geometrics, colors, textures and visual balance.
  • Mar: What are your plans for the Spring Season bill of fare?
  • Joaquin: Red tuna, wild mushrooms, fresh vegetables, fruits, fresh salad greens & herbs. Market and the Spring Season.
  • Mar: What are your dream trips?
  • Joaquin: Hong Kong and Paris.
  • Mar: What had been your motives and inspiration to study the culinary arts?
  • Joaquin: Secure formation for employment and continuing formation for growth & enhancement.
  • Mar: Tell us, I heard the Condé Nast Award for best Hotel 2007 was given to Hotel Derby Urban.
  • Joaquin: Yes, the 2007 Condé Nast Award for the best European Hotel.
  • Mar: What are some of the international projects that you have been involved with and which Chefs have you been teaming up with?
  • Joaquin: Firstly, Carme Ruscadella and I were at the Vanguard Japanese International Ecological Trade Fair AICHI EXPO in Tokyo. Additionally, I participated at the Norwegian Sea Products Council Event and at Madrid Fusion 2008 in January, I was on the Dessert Board of judges. My permanent projects also include Club Gourmet´s Corporate Clientel and Chef Paco Roncero and I have been doing numerous promotions for Spain´s olive oil industry and Iberian Ham producers.
  • Mar: How is your understanding of English?
  • Joaquin: Gastronomic vocabulary is good and the necessities which I have learned for travelling and communicating. Would you like to have lunch?
  • Mar: A Lite Lunch! A very lite lunch! At Europa Dëco, you wine and dine like royalty. The unforgettable lunch once again.

Chef’s Specialties

  • White Wine: 2007 Conclasse from Sitios de Bodega D.O. Rueda
  • Fresh Home Baked Corn Bread
  • Hot out of the oven Grapes & Seeds Black Bread
  • Palate Opener Mini canapé Red Tuna with a Manchego Pisto Bed
  • Freshly caught Cockles (berberechos) Al Vapor on a bed of escarole, red oak leaf, radicchio, rucola & sprouts. Served with a Yellow Tomato & Golden Yellow Bell Pepper Gazpacho.
  • Seared Sea Bass with Marine Algaes & Tempura. Quite a Frank Gehry Concoction!
  • Red Wine: D.O. La Rioja Ysios 100% Tempranillo Grape Reserva 2002
  • Kobe filet mignon dotted with sea salt & light drizzle of extra virgin olive oil served with fresh aromatic field greens
  • Dessert Wine: Enrique Mendoza´s Moscatel De La Marina D.O. Alicante
  • Green & Orange Melon Sorbet
  • Joaquin´s Chocolate Sins with one Red Rose
  • Espresso

Contact & Location

Hotel Derby Urban

Carrera San Jerónimo 34

Metro Lines 1,2 & 3: Puerta del Sol or Sevilla
Book a Table: 91. 787. 7770

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